As we sail and make a course through the Barrent sea I’m reminded of how these waters are filled with the spirits and souls of misguided whalers, sealers, and ill prepared explorers. Likewise these waters are the burial ground for many whom during World War II made the Murmansk run.

The Murmansk run is synonymous with the arctic convoy route of World War II lead allies forces of Britain and America that desperately brought supplies to Murmansk Russia. This supply route was vital to Russia if they were to hold off Nazi advances on the Eastern front. Without the allied ships that made the voyages with their supplies of arsenal, food, and other necessities Russia may well not have beaten back the Nazi invasion. With these convoys allies lost 85 merchant vessels, 16 warships, and countless sailors and marines.

The Murmansk run was never a routine affair. There was always a hazard of storms, and arctic ice, let alone if one faced enemy attacked via submarines from below, destroyer ships on the water, or fighter planes up high. During summer months filled with constant daylight, one faced possible Nazi attack continuously. It must have seemed to sailors that they were ducks in a pond with planes above like bees searching for honey. The Nazi planes would arrive making their dives seeking to earn their iron cross in the arctic son.

“Not many men had twice made the Murmansk run and lived”

-Leon Wortman From Catch a Shadow

These were poor souls chilled to the bone trying frantically to guide the flocks of the ships home one by one. To many it was a suicide run.

How many young men must of had their thoughts turn to when they might be home again….. only to have the morning answer never.

During World War II Murmansk suffered extensive destruction the likes of Leningrad and Stalingrad. In 1985 Murmansk was awarded the formal designation of being a Hero City for outstanding heroism during World War II. My hope is that there is a memorial in Murmansk to honor all those whom lived and died taking part in the Murmansk run.

On this our first full day on board our ship, we are met with smooth sailing. Aside from the frequent weather changes that can turn on a dime, we thus far have only been presented with an occasional drizzle of rain and a passing of fog. Where by today we are trying to catch sight of a wondering sea bird, my thought turns to those making the Murmansk run who always looked out not for sea gulls but for danger.

It was unexpected. I had given lots of thought to reaching the North Pole but I had not expected that my stop at Murmansk would stir me so as to reflect such on the memories of the Murmansk run. Travel has an ability and power to draw one not only to a place but as well a frame of mind.

Peace,

Giovanni Savaglio

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